Story and photos as published in US Windsurfing Magazine, summer 2003
Sail Away, Cabarete |
Cabarete is in a bay that sports one of the best windsurfing setups in the world.On the north shore of the Dominican Republic, this once-small town has grown into a blossoming city that caters to windsurfers and tourists. I came to Cabarete for a short windsurfing trip 10 years ago-and I have yet to leave. Why? I can't think of a better place to be. I sail as many days as work allows, and I still have more than enough time to enjoy the beach lifestyle supreme.
Getting there
There are no nonstop flights into Cabarete. Fly to Puerto Plata, not Santo Domingo. When you get off the plane buy a tourist card for 10$. Convert your money to the Dominican peso (about 17 to $1 US.), then grab a $20 cab ride from the airport to Cabarete, about 20 minutes away.
The bay
Thanks to the reef about three-quarter miles offshore, Cabarete Bay offers remarkable flat water and wave sailing. A dose of local thermals augments the easterly trade winds. The typical range is 15 to 25 knots, but windier days are no unusual in earlyspring to midsummer. On the average day, the reef breaks hip high to overhead waves. In the winter, cold fronts occasionally push down large swells that break outside the reef and re-form inside the bay, creating a powerful shore break. On these days, we see some mast-high-plus waves that will get any sailor's adrenaline pumping. If you're around during a swell, you'll for sure see some world-class sailing. The action will no doubt feature a fair share of highly visible wipeouts.
My gear
I am an average size guy, weighing about 180 lb. My standard sail is a 5.2 and my other sails are a 5.7 and a 4.7. I use them with an 85L board on lighter days and a 75L board on the windy days.
Trick for your first trip
Newly arrived windsurfers initially struggle a bit with the wind shadow over the first 50 yards of water. The ticket here is to beach start and not fall or you will have to use your uphaul. After having been here for a while you consider the wind shadow a blessing. The wind is light near the beach and keeps you cool, yet you or your non sailing spouse or your children will not be sandblasted all day while you are getting your wind fix.
Beyond sailing
When the wind is down try Surfing at El Enquentro, an entry-level spot with a good right point break and a faster left on the bigger days.
Horseback riding and mountain bike riding are 2 great ways to discover more of the countryside. The northeastern region of the DR is quite diverse, lush and tropical to slightly more arid, hilly and dotted with small rural settlements.
Or take a guided tour into the Cordillera Septentrional, and into a canyon less than an hour away from town. Guides supply wetsuits, helmets and climbing harnesses to help you negotiate down the riverbed and the occasional waterfall. Its as much fun as you can possibly have with all your clothes on!
Dining
La Casita de Papi up the beach. The thing to eat at la Casita is garlic shrimp with a Pastis cream sauce that is out of this world. Get the king crab at La Casa del Pescador. Miros serves a variety of dishes ranging from steak dinner to Indonesian as well as tapas. Plus there are more options a few steps off the beach, including Toma la Luna and Otra Cosa. Lax is a great place early in the night, while Onno's is were all night owls end up. Then sleep until the wind picks up.
Windsurf centers
Carib Bic Center
809-571-0640, www.caribwind.com
Vela Windsurf Resorts
800-223-5443,
Club Mistral Cabarete
809- 571-9791
Accommodations
Cabarete Palm Beach Condos
809-571-0758 or 800-822-9994,
Villa Taina
809-571-0722,
Hotel Albatros
809-571-0841, h.albatros@verizon.net.do
Hotel Caracol
Windsurf Resort
809-571-0718, windsurf@verizon.net.do
Other activities
Iguana Mama
809-571-0908,
Get Wet Adventures Cabarete
809-696-9073
Tips
Many restaurants and other smaller businesses will not accept credit cards.
Drink bottled water only (or beer or vitamin R)
Drive defensively. Once on a bike or in a car, Dominicans believe themselves to be Mario Andretti. More important than your brakes, use your horn.
Motoconchos are local motor taxis. They get you everywhere for about 10 RD.
The guagua is the public transportation and it's quite the experience!
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